LAKOTA - first post - May 4 2016

We picked her up on Saturday, April 30th, driving 5 hours north to Sacramento. There we met with the breeder and chatted for about 45 minutes. Then we turned right around and drove 5 hours home. We had purchased a puppy crate, but Lakota was not familiar with confinement. She went into howling fits as soon as she was crated. Impossible to drive home with that racket and bad for her as well, so I climbed into the back seat with her and with Yanqui, our 4 year old Labradoodle. 

At first, the puppy whimpered - confused and separated from all she had previously known. I don't soothe with words or cuddles, but held her in a comfortable position, allowing her wiggle room. In about 20 minutes, her body found Yanqui's body and she dropped on the seat between us: he on one side; I on the other. There she found peace. Yanqui was very patient with her all the way home. Eventually, the pup moved between sitting on my lap and lying next to Yanqui. She was no longer in distress. She did not suffer from car sickness.

Today, Wednesday, is our 5th day together - fourth day at home.

At 7 weeks, 6 days, Lakota is an infant with an imperial schedule: eat, potty, rest, play. Repeat. Quite an adjustment for dogs and humans. My beautiful house looks terrible as I don't have time for anything but puppy right now.

Tomorrow she will be 8 weeks old. Today, she ate half her food allotment for breakfast (2 cups previously held her all day--3 feedings). I hand fed her, using clicker for eye contact. Right now I still wear a thin leather glove on the feeding hand because she has no idea where her baby teeth are nor how much they can hurt. If she senses "hand," she is gentle. When she is excited, she is not gentle. Ouch.

Being a GSD, Lakota has great natural eye contact. While we develop long and soft eye contact over time, using games, clicker, etc., I found that Lakota also responds to the "stink eye" and will stop whatever naughtiness she is up to. For example, if she has grabbed hold of my shirt and tries to shake it out, while I could pull the shirt out of her mouth or offer a toy, a strong stare will also break her concentration.

Last night, Yanqui began really playing with her. First day, he wanted to mount her and of course we could not allow that. Next couple of days, he wanted to pretend she wasn't here. Last night, they actually played a bit, and he was gentle. Appropriate. We were throwing a ball. He would chase it. As he tried to bring it in, she began herding him. It was wonderful to see her breed instincts come into play. She knew how to front him, how to circle him. At times, she lay flat, watching him like a Border Collie, to see which way he would try to run.

The biggest issue we have with her at this moment is that everything she sees must go immediately into her mouth. Although our yard seemed safe, I had not thought of "edibles" like a stray pebble or a hard lump of dirt. So we will keep her on the grass until she can handle other surfaces without eating them. An X-pen would be so useful here.

Lakota is handling the leash extremely well. Leash work (on the human end) reminds me of the fine hand an excellent rider develops in reining horses. A dog can feel even the faintest touch on a leash. If the dog puts neck pressure forward, we stand still and "pinch" the leash with our fingers. As soon as the dog relieves the pressure - whether by accident (his foot slips to the side) or design (he turns even slightly to see what you are doing) - we release the pinch and go immediately to loose leash. "Loose leash" is the reward and dogs respond beautifully to it.

Results on this are amazing. Lakota struggles occasionally, for a few seconds, but by patiently waiting for her tiny tantrum to cease and giving her the reward of a loose leash, a few kind words and a smile, she is learning quickly to enjoy walking with us.

We also utilize Yanqui because she will follow him. If all else fails, which can happen when she poops out and flops, we pick up her back end and put her back on her feet, then run away from her and she follows. She has a powerful follow instinct.

All in all, we are very pleased with Lakota. She is very pretty. Her coat is fantastic. Her eye contact is very strong, yet kind. She has some guts, which she has shown at the fence and with the outdoor cats. Of course, she is redirected when inappropriate with the cats, but the fact that she throws her tail over her back and responds to her interior belief that she is on home territory and these outdoor cats may not belong there, shows her character.

When something startles her, she handles it well, recovering very quickly. When she runs to me for shelter, I don't get involved and she readjusts and moves forward.

She is climbing into the crate on her own now and crated-puppy squalls have diminished by 75%. However, she is squalling right now, so it is potty time.

More on Lakota as she develops.

PATIENCE: COUNT TO TEN

"Good character is not formed in a week or a month. It is created little by little, day by day. Protracted and patient effort is needed to develop good character."   ~Heraclitus~

Some folk call poodles "stubborn." Stubborn meaning "unyielding," "inflexible," "contrary". These labels imply a thought process of which I do not believe dogs capable. That is not to say dogs are incapable of thought processes! Rather, it is to say that a dog does not stop in the moment, consider what his human wants, and then decide, "no - I'd rather not." However, a dog's natural behavior in response to a situation may appear to be stubbornness.  

For example, my Labradoodle, as a pup and young dog, when confronted with a request, cue or situation he absolutely did not know how to handle, would "freeze up." At first, I was confounded by the behavior and did not know how to react to it. As we worked together and grew in understanding - as his tasks became more complicated - the freezing continued to reoccur.

I love dogs as teachers and via this "freezing behavior" Yanqui taught me the truth about patience. 

Yanqui, the Doodle Dandy

When a dog repeats a behavior that is unwanted, when the hows and whys of responding to, extinguishing, redirecting or rewarding the behavior remain outside the handler's grasp, PATIENCE is always the right approach, the right technique and the right tool.

If the handler is put off balance by the dog, it is important to slow down, remaining positive and objective in order to facilitate communication with the dog. In time, it became apparent that Yanqui is hyper-sensitive, soft and extremely intuitive about the handler's mental state.  So when he froze, I decided to do what my mother always said to do: Count to ten. 

Having taken time to observe the dog and release my expectations, I now became interested in what was actually taking place in front of me rather than indulging feelings of frustration. Knowing that by mentally counting I could release tension, and that the dog would realize I was in a relaxed state, the next time Yanqui froze, I began: one-and-one-thousand, two-and-one-thousand. By the time I reached "30" (seconds), Yanqui had altered his demeanor, unfrozen himself and was once again responsive and in the game.

Since that moment - those first amazing 30 seconds - Yanqui has taught me much. I realized that the rigidity of the "freeze" was a natural phenomenon, having nothing to do with "stubbornness". Yanqui's freezing is most likely an expression related to his genetics where hunting dogs "honor a point"(1) or are seen "backing the flush"(2) of another dog. 

I am the Big Dog in Yanqui's life, so when he doesn't know what to do, or feels pressured, he simply "honors the point."

Next, in repeating the "count to 10" approach throughout Yanqui's training (which, of course, continues as a process to this day), I learned that he seldom takes longer than 30 seconds to give  what is asked for. If he does take longer, this is simple information: either he feels very uncomfortable about what he is being asked to do (e.g., put on a new piece of equipment); or he is truly clueless. This knowledge gave me access to understanding my own accountability: I was capable of rushing him because he is so intelligent; I could give him a happy Release cue, which allows him the option of starting over. 

In my youth, my mother tried to explain the virtue of patience many times, but - with the wisdom of youth - I presumed she did not understand the power of one's passions. Now I understand that patience is not a lack of passion but a sign of the developed mind, which understands that time is relative, and that the journey is more important than the goal, if only because the goal itself is always changing in response to the journey!

We all know that coming home to poop or vomit, getting bowled over by a running dog, being jumped on by dirty paws, and having a dog ignore a recall requires our patience and a good thought because, hey, it just ain't fun!  However, the dog is, and always must be, the DOG. He cannot be held responsible for cars in the street, or children pulling his ears or thrusting candy in his face, for weird people that want to grab him. All the handler can do is understand what a dog-animal is, and what the life of this domesticated animal will include, then teach him to be comfortable and cooperative inside that life. 

SO, when in doubt, Count to ten, baby, just like Mama taught you. 

(1) ON POINTING, by Linda Fiorella (www.vetstreet.com)

"[in} the act of pointing, a dog becomes motionless with his snout toward an object...[this] is normally associated with dogs who are bred and trained for hunting. Hundreds of years ago, the first of these dogs were bred in Europe to sniff out birds and then “freeze.” Holding the pointing position told hunters where to throw their nets and capture the prey. Because most dogs chase birds, a dog with the ability to stop in the presence of a partridge still proves invaluable to hunters today. But hunting breeds aren’t the only ones who will point, so don’t be surprised if you see this behavior in your pup.

(2) HONORING A POINT by Dave Walker (www.gundogsonline.com)

"When one dog sees another dog or dogs on point, he must stop and look like he's on point, but actually he is recognizing the [other] dog on point. This situation is called backing or honoring. The term "backing" suggests the second dog is confirming the first dog's point...[although] "honoring" is less confusing and more descriptive of the act. A dog can honor another dog from any position, not just in back of the pointing dog. Honoring is important in both hunting and field trailing because dogs should not interfere with others on point."

WORKSHOPS

The Compassionate Handler

THE WORKSHOP

Our dog is always “there”; it has no ability to be anywhere else. But are WE “there” or are we home getting ready to run the kid to soccer practice? Are we happy with what the dog achieves “at that moment” or are we wishing Pup was a year older and we didn’t have to come to class anymore? 

We handlers need to be honest, focused, patient, and compassionate to our charges. Next, we need to gain his happy attention. After that, we can begin to train.

Who is “the dog in front of us?” For example: Does the dog get enough exercise (enough exercise for THAT particular dog); are his nutritional requirements met properly? (not fat, not too thin, good hair coat, etc.); do we, the handler/owner/trainer/etc, have a really good vet and a good relationship with same? Do we have our dog's attention when we want it, and does he offer attention and eye contact freely and joyfully? Does our dog respect the boundaries we have set for him? Have we elicited his cooperation?

When we are able to see what (a dog) and who (our companion animal) is in front of us, we can begin to focus on building the bond with the dog; we learn how to understand and appreciate the dog we have, in its current state (age,breed,condition,etc.); we learn how to relax and be calm around dogs. Via this approach, we build cooperation in the dog, and teamwork between dog and handler.

In class, we will start with our own body-mind, beginning with relaxation (extremely simple yoga poses and breathing). Next, we approach the dog. We start with very basic leash work, and move from there to eye contact. We discuss food and rewards, use of and extinguishing. As a group, we learn to observe The Dog by assisting one another and playing dog games.

The meat of the workshop will develop organically, according to the needs of the group. However, the basics above as well as proper dog walking with proper equipment, touch-and-the-dog, reliable recall, and the basis of Sit-Down-Wait, along with eye contact and the Invisible Door will all be addressed and performed hands-on.

After working out with the dog, whatever exercise we perform, we will return to calmness and touch, developing trust, and more.

Then back to breathing and a quick relaxation with a visual exercise (see you and your dog succeeding, now and in future).

STUDENTS WILL BRING

Application filled-out or mailed in including Proof of innoculation and name of vet

Small notebook & writing implement

6-foot lead, preferably 1/4-1/2” leather; web is okay. show type lead OK

wide flat collar, adjustable type is excellent for pups

soft hair brush (10)

yoga mat and dog mat (towels are okay)

(crate or restraint) 

DATES: 6 Saturdays -  May 7-14-21 (28)   June 4-11-18

9:00 a.m. - 10:15 a.m.

WHERE: Hwy. 46, Paso Robles CA

Contact me: packdawgy101@yahoo.com

PRIVATE TUTORIALS

Private Visits/Classes (contact me: packdawgy101@yahoo.com)

Energy Readings - you and your dog (contact me: packdawgy101@yahoo.com)

Background & Education

See:  http://doggedlydogged.blogspot.com/2014/02/getting-to-know-you.html

the Compassionate Dog Handler

The Compassionate Dog Handler

I have dogs because I like that animal called a dog, and because I enjoy the companionship of a dog. For me, they are fun, social, activity-oriented, beautiful to look at, and I enjoy the nurturing/caretaking/management experience. I believe that most people - who involve themselves in dog classes - feel something similar and will exceed their own expectations by learning some simple truths and techniques.

In my search for the Truth About Dogs, I have taken years of dog training classes, workshops and seminars, and have enjoyed working with my own and other people’s dogs in a variety of venues. (See “Background” below.) 

However, in each seminar or workshop, the class leader has always dealt directly with the dog, allowing the handler to flounder. In other words, when teaching a student how to get their dog to sit, the trainer will show his technique, then require the student to mimic same with his dog. How well you mimic, how much attention your dog is able to pay at that moment, the age, sex, and condition of the dog, the prior experience or lack thereof of the handler — all of these things are of paramount importance in creating a successful outcome for the dog-student team, but none of these variations is typically addressed. Although most people who have attended Dog Class are able to walk away with some form of a Sit or Down on their dog, often the overall results are less than satisfying. It is not unusual for a student handler to leave a 6 week class wondering what went wrong rather than feeling the satisfaction of knowing that the dog has picked up some cues, is happier than it was before class, and with the handler feeling more calm and in control of the dog.

I hope, in my workshops, to help fill in that gap, utilizing and sharing a more holistic and intuitive approach to dog handling. Firstly, the handler is the focus of the workshop. If the handler is unable to gain the dog’s attention, if the handler approaches the dog in a negative fashion or with fear, doubt, confusion, uncertainty, disappointment, frustration, etc., if the handler does not see the dog in front of him (e.g., 6 month old animal, non-attentive, a bit hyper, smart but unfocused, etc.), and does not observe its movements and attitudes (e.g., glances often at handler but looks away quickly, shows signs of needing to eliminate, has slight limp on back left, etc.), then results will be minimal at best. After all, in the final analysis, it is always the handler who determines the success and cooperation of the dog under his control, not the dog.

THE WORKSHOPS

Our dog is always “there”; it has no ability to be anywhere else. But are WE “there” or are we home getting ready to run the kid to soccer practice? Are we happy with what the dog achieves “at that moment” or are we wishing Pup was a year older and we didn’t have to come to class anymore? 

We handlers need to be honest, focused, patient, and compassionate to our charges. Next, we need to gain his happy attention. After that, we can begin to train.

Who is “the dog in front of us?” For example: Does the dog get enough exercise (enough exercise for THAT particular dog); are his nutritional requirements met properly? (not fat, not too thin, good hair coat, etc.); do we, the handler/owner/trainer/etc, have a really good vet and a good relationship with same? Do we have our dog's attention when we want it, and does he offer attention and eye contact freely and joyfully? Does our dog respect the boundaries we have set for him? Have we elicited his cooperation?

When we are able to see what (a dog) and who (our companion animal) is in front of us, we can begin to focus on building the bond with the dog; we learn how to understand and appreciate the dog we have, in its current state (age,breed,condition,etc.); we learn how to relax and be calm around dogs. Via this approach, we build cooperation in the dog, and teamwork between dog and handler.

In class, we will start with our own body-mind, beginning with relaxation (extremely simple yoga poses and breathing). Next, we approach the dog. We start with very basic leash work, and move from there to eye contact. We discuss food and rewards, use of and extinguishing. As a group, we learn observe The Dog by assisting one another and playing dog games.

The meat of the workshop will develop organically, according to the needs of the group. However, the basics above as well as proper dog walking with proper equipment, touch-and-the-dog, reliable recall, and the basis of Sit-Down-Wait, along with eye contact and the Invisible Door will all be addressed and performed hands-on.

After working out with the dog, whatever exercise we perform, we will return to calmness and touch, developing trust, and more.

Then back to breathing and a quick relaxation with a visual exercise (see you and your dog succeeding, now and in future).

STUDENTS WILL BRING

Application filled-out or mailed, w-Proof of inoculation & name/phone# of vet

Small notebook & writing implement

6-foot lead, preferably 1/4-1/2” leather; web is okay. show type lead OK

wide flat collar, adjustable type is excellent for pups

soft hair brush (10)

yoga mat and dog mat (towels are okay)

(crate or restraint) 

DATES: 6 Saturdays -  May 7-14-21 (28)   June 4-11-18

9:00 a.m. - 10:15 a.m.

WHERE: Hwy. 46, Paso Robles CA

Contact me: packdawgy101@yahoo.com

For more info on the Workshops, see page:
http://doggedlydogged.blogspot.com/2016/04/the-workshops.html

BACKGROUND

Workshops/Seminars with the following:

• C. W. Meisterfeld (2 workshops), author Crazy Dogs and Crazy People. See:

  Amazon's C. W. Meisterfeld Page

• Job Michael Evans, formerly, [a] Monks of New Skete: How to be your dog's Best Friend ) See: Amazon's Job Michael Evans Page

• Tellington T-Touch Training. See:  

  Amazon's Linda Tellington-Jones Page

• Sheila Boothe, author: Purely Positive Training: Companion to Competition and Schutzhund Obedience: Training in Drive
• Behavioral workshops(2) - with Bob & Marian Bailey, Bob Bailey, and Morgan Spector (see:  Behavior Matters^®, Inc.) (see:  http://drsophiayin.com/blog/entry/the-best-animal-trainers-in-history-interview-with-bob-and-marian-bailey * and  http://behavior1.com )

• Morgan Spector, dog trainer and author 
  Clicker Training for Obedience: Shaping Top Performance-Positively

• Suzanne Hetts (2), creator "Assess-a-Hand"; author; see: Amazon's Suzanne Hetts Page
  
  
• Turid Rugaas, author 
  On Talking Terms With Dogs: Calming Signals 
  
  
• Sue Ailsby, author: "Leading the Dance")

• Sonoma County Dog Training Association, 1987-1997

Cesar Millan: the Dog Whisperer

Q: What is the one thing two dog trainers will always agree on?
A: The third dog trainer is wrong.

Since I am a behavioral trainer, avoiding coercion, one might assume I would be a natural naysayer with regard to Cesar Millan. However, I believe his foundation principles (exercise, discipline, affection) are absolutely sound, and agree that it is imperative to approach my dog, your dog, all dogs, with respect and understanding of the species. A dog must be seen as a dog, not a hairy human or child substitute in order to thrive.

Canine Sports & Activities (past and present)

Invitee: Gaines Regional Dog Obedience Trial (1988)

C.D.: Covy-Tucker Hill's Wolfgang
Canine Good Citizen Test (CGC, Byron, Certified)

A.T.T.S.: (American Temperament Test Society) ThunderHawk's Kallashnikov (Caucasian Ovcharka)

WebMaster - Ovcharka World, 1999-2003
Angel at My Shoulder, Dog & Handler Education, since 1996

Head Dog Trainer - SPCA-LA Tender Loving Care Program, Spring 2000 (for at-risk high school students and shelter dogs)
Dog Trainer - PetCo 1999

Dog Trainer - Sebastopol Parks & Recreation, 1996-97
Contributing Editor, Dog Sports Magazine, 1986-1988

Volunteer (with Byron and Wolfgang) - Pet-Assisted Therapy, 1988-1995
Dog Walker/Volunteer - Sebastopol SPCA 1990-1995

Co-Founder and President, United States Caucasian Ovcharka Preservation Society (@2000-2001)

Secretary: Western States Schutzhund Club (defunct)

Dog & Cat Rescue - the majority of my dogs and all my cats have been rescues from the streets.

Continuing Education:  It has been my privilege to read, travel, collect information, and study under some of the best behavioral educators and dog trainers in the U.S. Life with dogs is a journey, not a destination. Continuing education is a must.

Related activities:

Our lives lead us to our final goals, if we are lucky, persistent, try to stay in tune. Research, activities, studies that have led me here include ©T-Touch, Massage, Yoga, Dance, Meditation, Hypnosis and Visualization, Qi Gong and the study of Chakras.
Writing, drawing, photography, each including the study of animals, have also been pertinent.

NEUTRAL MASTERY: The Calm and Centered Mind

Neutral Mastery: The Calm and Centered Mind

When it comes to one's approach in management, handling and teaching good manners to the dog, I like the term “Neutral Mastery.” I coined this term, the "Neutral Master" or "Neutral Mastery" for two reasons. First, the word “Dominance” triggers knee-jerk reactions, and is, therefore, a word to avoid, no matter what it’s implications in dog management. Second, in dealing with animals, we must approach with compassion, understanding and a calm and centered Mind. 

Neutral Mastery means, first, that WE OWN EVERYTHING, and this must be made clear to the pup or dog from the outset. Secondly, we LEAD everywhere and in all situations, unless a specific release cue is given. Our release cue becomes a reward or Premack for the dog and is an essential tool in relieving the dog of pressure and boredom, as well as simply permitting him the freedom to express his true, joyous nature.

Where discipline is concerned, it is like the old joke:
A guy walks into a class of young dog-training students with their dogs. He passes out a newspaper to each student and tells them, "Ok, I am going to teach you how to make your dog behave. Roll up your newspaper." Some of the students are horrified, others are, like, "yea, that's how my Dad did it." Now the trainer tells them, "if you see your pup going into the middle of the living room rug and taking a squat, I want you to take that rolled up newspaper...

and HIT YOURSELF OVER THE TOP OF THE HEAD with it. Because YOU are responsible for what your dog does. Every time."

So, for me, where discipline is concerned, it is we - the handlers - who must remember all the management our dog requires, and then apply it. We must also observe the Individual Dog, the actual dog standing right in front of us, and use the techniques proper to management and training of that dog.

In other words, a 9-week old Corgi is going to have different needs than a 2 year old neutered bulldog. It is what it is, and we must forget the dogs we had, and the Perfect Dog we hope for. Rather, we must always deal with the dog that is standing right in front of us. 

So these then are the first two disciplines: 1) manage your dog correctly (exercise, boundaries, adequate nutrition and clean available water, proper vet care, outdoor activities, mental work, and socialization); 2) manage the dog that is IN FRONT OF YOU - deal with that individual dog's way of being.